Finding My Reflection in American Beach: Amelia Island's History Hidden in Plain Sight

You know that moment when you're looking through a Where's Waldo book, searching through all those busy scenes for that one recognizable face? That's often my reality - except I'm looking for other Black faces in predominantly white spaces, and unlike Waldo, there's no guarantee anyone's there to find.

I Was Today Years Old: A Black History Revelation

Whenever I vacation, wherever I vacation, I actively seek out cultural experiences and try to uncover Black history gems while looking for venues or locations where the population looks like me. So, imagine my surprise when I made my reservation at Elizabeth Point Lode without knowing much about Amelia island - I'm from Boston and typically at this time of year I would be headed to the Cape or Martha's Vineyard. I now live in Atlanta and, well, the Vineyard is not so practical. But, I was today years old when I learned that 6 miles down the road from my hotel, one of the most significant Black beach communities in American History exists - American Beach.

Now, here's what really gets me: How is it that I have never heard of American Beach? I am both elated and angry about this discovery. Elated because I've found this incredible piece of Black history that I can now experience and support. Angry because this is yet another example of how Black history gets erased from mainstream narratives. I'm intentional and proactive in my efforts to seek out, understand stories like this and yet this significant community - celebrating its 90th anniversary this year - was completely unknown to me until I did my usual Google search of "things to do in..." and scrolled down, way, way down to find the American Beach Museum buried in my search results.

The Progressional Preview Continues

As someone who's more or less mastered the art of being "the only one" in boardrooms, conferences, zoom meetings and corporate happy hours, I thought I'd developed good instincts for navigating predominantly white spaces. Out of necessity, certainly not desired. My perseverance and insistence rewarded me with this incredible history lesson that was right under my nose.

The Great Amelia island Disappearing Act

Let me paint you a picture: Nassau County, Florida where Amelia island is located, is 85.27% white and a whopping 5.57% Black. For context, thats lower than the percentage of people who still think pineapple belongs on pizza (fight me). We're talking about a place where the Black population has been declining from 7.7% in2000 to barely scraping 5% today, while the overall population exploded by 56.7%.

This demographic shift tells me a familiar story of how Jim Crow's legacy and economic oppressions can can displace established Black communities, even decades after segregation officially (allegedly) ended.

The Abraham Lincoln Lewis Legacy: Unparalleled Black Excellence

I'm not a huge fan of the term "black Excellence." To me it feels performative. But if ever there was a fitting appropriation of that term, this is it. Learning about American Beach has me bemused. This year marks the 90th anniversary of something I should have known about decades ago. Abraham Lincoln Lewis, whose parents in naming him clearly understood the assignment, wasn't just Florida's first Black Millionaire. This man created something unprecedented. Founded in 1935, American Beach was literally markets as offering "Recreation and Relaxation Without Humiliation. But here's the abridged version of what makes Lewis' vision unparalleled:While I'm can't help but recall similarities with Oak Bluffs on Martha's Vineyard (shoutout to the Inkwell), American Bech's corporate founding and scope was revolutionary. Lewis used his Afro-American Life Insurance Company fortune to purchase 216 acres of pristine oceanfront property, creating a fully planned resort community. During its heyday, American Beach welcomed over 10,000 visitors per day. it's said that Ray Charles, Duke Ellington, and Hank Aaron all hung out there. it was the "Negro Ocean Playground" = a title that sounds both triumphant and heartbreaking when you realize it existed because everywhere else had "Whites Only" signs. In fact, Black's and white who found beaching together could serve 90 days in jail for doing so.

The Inkwell emerged more organically from the 1890s, serving the established African American summer community in Oak Bluffs. But Lewis? This man built an empire from scratch, complete with hotels, nightclubs, and entertainment that rivaled Harlem venues. Different foundations, same demand for dignity.

Enter MaVynee: The island's Beloved Matriarch

Then there's MaVynee Betsch, known as "The Beach Lady," who passed in 2005 but whose legacy continues to protect this sacred space and and its ecosystem. Lewis' great-granddaughter literally gave up her international opera career to become American Beach's most passionate environmental advocate and community matriarch. This woman donated her entire inheritance to environmental causes and spent decades fighting to preserve not just the buildings, but the natural ecosystem that made American Beach special.

MaVynee understood that American Beach wasn't just about Black history - it was about environmental stewardship, community preservation, and maintaining spaces that honor both our ancestors and our future. She was out here being an environmentalist before it was trendy, protecting the NaNa Dune system while fighting gentrification with the fierce love of someone who knew exactly what was at stake.

The Heartbreaking and Beautiful Truth

The story of American Beach's transformation breaks my heart while simultaneously inspiring me. Hurricane Dora in 1964 destroyed much of the infrastructure. Then - and this is where irony becomes an art form - The Civil Rights act of 1964 accidentally contributed to the exodus. Once Black families could go to any beach, they no longer needed to travel hundreds of miles to American Beach.

The developers came in the 1970s with their luxury resort plans. No surprises there. Land that freed slaves bought for 50 cents an acre suddenly became million-dollar beachfront property. The original 216-acre American Beach shrunk to about 40 acres.

But here's what's beautiful: the renaissance is real. Nassau County's Black population may have declined to just 5.57%, but American Beach achieved National Register status in 2002, became part of the Timucuan Ecological and Historic Preserve, and opened the A.L.Lewis Museum in 2014. The community that MaVynee fought so hard to preserve is experiencing a revival that honors both it's past and future.

My Revelation and Resolution

Next time I visit Amelia Island, I 'm staying in American Beach. I want to wake u where Ray Charles once performed, where families found dignity during Jim Crow, where MaVynee's environmental legacy continues to protect sacred dunes. I want to support the renaissance rather than just being another tourist playing Where's Waldo with my own people

Representation and Renaissance

I suppose I should refer to this as an enlightenment vs. a discovery. American Beach has been there proudly surviving despite my ignorance of that fact. Experience reminds me why representation matters - not just in corporate boardrooms where I'm far too frequently still "the only one," but in the stories we tell about places worth visiting. American Beach's 90th anniversary isn't just a historical milestone; it's a celebration of resilience, vision, and the ongoing work of community preservation.

Abraham Lincoln Lewis created something unparalleled in American history. MaVynee Betsch protected it with fierce environmental stewardship. And now, a new generation is writing the next chapter of this remarkable story.

So, here I am, no longer just searching for Black Waldo in every crowd. Instead, I'm learning about hte incredible spaces where Black Waldo has always existed, thrived and continues to build community. Sometimes the search isn't about finding representation - its about discovering the rich history that was always there, waiting for us to pay attention.

Next visit, my goal is to stay where the history is. Elizabeth Pointe Lodge is lovely, but American Beach is legendary.

This author continues her journey of discovery, armed with new knowledge, deeper appreciation (if that were possible), and a reservation at American Beach for her next visit. The search for Black Waldo? Turns out he was here all along - I just needed to know ehre to look.